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ENAMEL – THE IMMORTAL BEAUTY ON A WATCH DIAL


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In the world of fine watchmaking, where every detail is revered as a work of art, there exists an ancient craft that has quietly endured for centuries, yet each appearance still draws awe from true connoisseurs: Pháp Lam – the Enamel Dial.

Enamel: The essence of fire, color, and the artisan’s hand.

Enamel is not a trend. It is a symbol. Born in fiery kilns at temperatures reaching 800–900°C, an enamel dial is the result of multiple layers of mineral glass, fired repeatedly – each firing a test of chance and unwavering patience. A single crack, a hidden bubble, and the painstaking work vanishes into nothing.

That is why every successful enamel dial is a miracle – a testament to patience, to the passion for high art, and to an obsession with timeless beauty.

In the past, enamel was reserved for royalty and noble families. Even today, though somewhat more accessible, enamel is still not for the masses. Not everyone understands it, and fewer still can truly own it. To appreciate an enamel dial requires a mature sense of aesthetics and a profound sensitivity to quiet beauty.

True collectors, creative directors, business leaders, and statesmen seek enamel not for the brand name, but for the life experience and the truth embedded in its silent glow: rarity, uniqueness, immortal beauty, and cultural depth. Each shade, each stroke on the dial reflects their inner refinement, their aesthetic taste, their personality. Such a watch is not about flaunting wealth or status—it is an extension of who they are: their intellect, their character, their depth.

Enamel dials are not only beautiful; they are nearly eternal. Resistant to UV light and oxidation, their colors remain unchanged over centuries. In the world of collectors, enamel watches from the 18th century still shine as vividly as the day they were made—something no other material can match.

This is why enamel dials have become a benchmark of value in vintage watch auctions. Some of the most remarkable sales stand as proof of their everlasting allure:

  • Patek Philippe 2523 Eurasia Cloisonné Enamel – a dual-time wristwatch with a cloisonné enamel map of Eurasia, sold at Christie’s Geneva in 2019 for over USD 7.7 million.

  • Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 605 HU – a world map enamel dial in yellow gold from the 1950s, fetching more than USD 4 million at Phillips.

  • Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Hommage to Great Civilizations” – a series of four unique pieces combining Grand Feu enamel with cloisonné and champlevé techniques, inspired by the Louvre Museum, each valued at around USD 1.2 million.

These values are born not from technology, but from human hands. No machine, no robot, could ever paint such miniature masterpieces with fire enamel.

Owning an enamel timepiece is a silent declaration of refined taste. It is not a choice for ostentation, but for those who have moved beyond superficial glitter—to pause before pure, enduring beauty.

Fleur De Lis takes pride in working with Vietnamese artisans, bringing enamel to life once again—not only as watch dials, but as true works of art infused with the rich spirit of Vietnam’s history and culture, worn gracefully on the wrist.

 
 
 

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