HOW A FLEUR DE LIS ENAMEL DIAL IS CREATED

Enamel (French: émail) is the centuries-old art of fusing powdered glass onto metal, creating a glossy, vividly colored surface that can last for centuries. At its heart, enamel is finely ground glass, melted at extreme temperatures (750–900°C), and bonded permanently to a metal base.

At Fleur De Lis, we primarily craft our dials using two masterful techniques: Cloisonné Enamel (Kháp ti) and Champlevé Enamel (Tạm thai).

Step 1: Preparing the Metal Base

• Material: pure gold, silver, or copper

• Surface treatment: polishing, acid cleansing, or engraving background motifs

• Shaping: cutting to dial size, drilling apertures for the hands

Step 2: Preparing the Enamel (Eliminating Imperfections)

• Grinding mineral glass into an ultra-fine powder

• Sorting particles by size

• Filtering to remove impurities

• Mixing with distilled water or natural oils (medium) to allow painting or application

Step 3: Applying the First Layers (Painting with Fire)

• Applying thin coats of enamel using fine brushes or by dusting evenly

• Drying gently with heat or naturally in open air

• Firing in a kiln at ~800–850°C for 1–2 minutes

• Repeating the process: typically 5–7 layers (each fired separately) to achieve depth and brilliance of color

Step 4: Grinding and Polishing (Awakening the Beauty)

• After the final firing, the surface is leveled with abrasive stones or fine sandpaper

• Polishing by hand with powdered stone for a mirror-like sheen

• Numerals or logos, if required, are applied using enamel printing or hand painting, followed by another firing

Step 5: Inspection & Assembly (The Critical Eye)

• Every dial is examined for perfect flatness, uniform color, and absence of cracks

• The dial is then mounted onto the movement, fitted with hands, and assembled into the case

Step 6: Beyond PerfectionFinally, the finished masterpiece is placed in a luxurious Macassar wood box, ready to be presented to its rightful owner.